Namdapha, in the far north-east corner of India by its borders with China and Burma, is the least known and one of the largest National Parks in India. Visitors are rare. A special permit is required, which is a pain to get. There is only one guest-house in the Park, and it is falling down. Illegal logging is rife and poaching is endemic. But it remains one of the world’s richest pockets of biodiversity.